The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, affectionately nicknamed the "Steve McQueen" due to its association with the legendary actor, occupies a unique and highly coveted position within the world of horological collecting. Its rarity, distinctive design features, and compelling history have cemented its status as a grail watch for many serious enthusiasts. This article delves deep into the intricacies of the Rolex 1655, exploring its dial variations, price fluctuations, market availability, and the enduring allure that connects it to the iconic Steve McQueen.
Rolex 1655 Explorer II ref. 1655: A Brief History
Introduced in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 was designed as a professional tool watch for spelunkers and explorers. Its defining feature, the independent 24-hour hand, allowed for easy distinction between day and night in low-light conditions, a crucial element for navigating underground caves or challenging environments. This functionality, combined with its robust construction and exceptional reliability, quickly established it as a favorite among adventurers and professionals. However, it was its association with Steve McQueen that propelled the 1655 into the stratosphere of collectible horology.
While there's no definitive proof that McQueen owned a specific 1655, numerous photographs depict him wearing a watch very similar in appearance. This visual connection, coupled with McQueen's enduring cool and rebellious image, has cemented the 1655's nickname and significantly increased its desirability. This association is a powerful factor driving the high prices commanded by these watches today.
Rolex 1655 Dial Variations: A Collector's Puzzle
One of the key aspects that makes collecting the Rolex 1655 so fascinating is the diversity of its dial variations. Slight differences in the font, lume plots, and overall aesthetic create a complex tapestry of variations, each with its own unique charm and value. Understanding these variations is critical for discerning collectors.
* "Freccione" Dial: This variation, often referred to as the "Freccione" (Italian for "arrow"), features a distinctive arrow-shaped hand for the 24-hour indicator. This is one of the most sought-after dials, contributing significantly to the watch's overall value. The "Freccione" dial is often associated with the Steve McQueen connection, further enhancing its desirability.
* "Straight Seconds Hand" Dial: The presence of a straight seconds hand, as opposed to a lollipop seconds hand found in later models, is another crucial characteristic of the 1655. This subtle difference is a defining feature of the early production years and contributes to the watch's historical significance.
* Lume Variations: The lume (luminescent material) used on the dial and hands also varies across different production runs. Early examples often feature a creamy, aged lume that has developed a beautiful patina over time, while later watches may have a brighter, more modern lume. The condition and appearance of the lume are important factors affecting a watch's value.
* Dial Markers: Variations in the font and style of the dial markers, particularly the numerals, are another subtle but significant point of difference. Slight variations in the shape and proportions of the markers can significantly impact a watch's desirability among collectors.
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